Undici giorno (Day 11): Cinque Terre
“I am not the same having seen the moon shine on the other side of the world.” -- Mary Anne Radmacher
E: Giorno. We were up early and hopped on a boat to Vernazza, a neighboring town, and the damage was immediately evident. Restaurants had handwritten signs posted on their door, “Not open.” We looked for the divine bakery that a friend had recommended, and we found dust in its place. The storm had caused major destruction to a place that thrives on tourism. The villagers lost their livelihoods. One man showed me a snapshot of his store right after the damage was done, mud had consumed it. Now, the pristine white walls held racks of jars and trinkets, postcards and cups. The community had helped him rebuild his life and now he would help other members of the community rebuild theirs. His story encouraged and inspired me to make a difference in my community. We wanted to support the locals by buying souvenirs, but at our first stop, the credit card line was down, so they could only transact sales in cash. The ATM suffered from the same disorder, so we spent as much cash as we had on us, buying pesto and olive oil soap. I left the sad shadow of a village with a cherished tee-shirt describing the flood (the money went towards rebuilding efforts) and a vow to return again soon when Vernazza was in full swing. After we returned back to Monterosso, we hit the shore. The sparkling water contrasted the dark, sharp rocks that rose dramatically into the air. The rays of sunshine tanned my skin and lightened my spirits just in time for an impromptu group dinner at Ristorante Belvedere.
K: Leading the way ordering fresh seafood for the group was Tony, who spoke in Italian so there was no misunderstanding. He encouraged the table to order two pots of seafood stew. When the first huge steaming pot wouldn’t empty, because of the whole octopus that got stuck in the neck, we knew it would be an unforgettable meal! We hardly made a dent in the huge bowl, even though we ate until way past full. I am gratified to say that both Elizabeth and I tried the octopus – and it was unmistakably an octopus with suckers down its tentacles (and eyes staring at you!) In fairness, it tasted like calamari, so it was not objectionable at all.
After dinner, we strolled part of the pathway towards Vernazza until darkness required us to turn around. The light of the moon shone on the magical town and set the perfect scene for a stroll back to our hotel. Monterosso was so charming – day light or dark, it didn’t matter.
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Our Favorites:
K: Sitting by the sea for a fresh lunch of bruschetta after our morning venture to Vernazza
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E: Visiting with the shopkeeper in Vernazza whose shop had been waist deep in mud last fall
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